Seafood, Lounge, American
Water views, Bar scene, Happy hour, Summer only
This East Hampton spot is a casual bi-level restaurant and lounge, serving upscale seafood and satisfying, summery cuisine. The breezy blue-and-white decor overlooking boats and islands is one good reason to come here, but it's the overall celebratory mood that will have you coming back.
Wednesday to Sunday for dinner, from 4 p.m. Expected to be open every day for dinner as of Monday, 6/30, with weekend lunches to follow.
Elevator to dining-room level
fisherman soup, Fish-and-chips, lobster salad rollWebsite Add an event Correct this listing
The evening show at East Hampton's Harbor-Marina arrives tonight at 8:31.
But the one lasting beyond the sunset that launches a hundred iPhone cameras is chef Eric Miller's satisfying, summery cuisine.
Miller is the executive chef-proprietor of Bay Kitchen Bar, the latest resident here, with a breezy, blue-and-white, second-floor perch overlooking ripples, boats and islands. It's the successor to several seasonals, the most recent being Andrra; the most notable, Bostwick's. Miller comes here after a stint at now-gone Madison & Main in Sag Harbor.
Bay Kitchen Bar is as noisy as any of them. Everyone seems to be in a celebratory mood, sipping a French 75 or a watermelon-basil margarita, Dogfish Head 60 Minute IPA or Lagunitas Little Sumpin' Sumpin' Ale on tap.
The truly blissed-out, however, must be sampling Miller's full-flavored fisherman soup, a localized, long-distance evocation of bouillabaisse, floating cuts of fluke, striped bass and tuna. A special of crisp, flash-fried soft-shell crab in savory corn-and-bacon chowder also is an excellent starter.
Less appealing are the thick discs of sea scallop and raggedly sliced local fluke dressed up as crudo; and the dull combo of Montauk tuna and fresh crab that's billed as ceviche. The opener of tomato-braised meatballs is dense, hard and underseasoned. You're better off with the spreads of hummus, roasted-pepper feta and tzatziki, served with pita triangles.
Frying is preferable, too. The eastern whole belly clams combine crunch and sweetness, accompanied by herbaceous tartar sauce. Fish-and-chips: very good, made with cod, ready for malt vinegar.
The house's lobster salad roll, on toasted brioche, with celery, parsley and lemon, is a refreshing main course. And the whole, steamed lobster, matched with sweet butter and shaved summer vegetables, is perfectly prepared. Pan-roasted local striped bass is preferable to the flaccid, mustard-crusted Montauk tuna.
If you're boycotting seafood, consider the sirloin, bacon-Cheddar burger or the ample rotisserie-roasted chicken instead of the overdone spit-roasted duck.
Top desserts are the lush Greek yogurt panna cotta with honey and a fresh berry compote, and the puck-size, compact chocolate marquise with pistachio ice cream.
The Key lime tart, however, is only routine; the old-fashioned strawberry shortcake, a nouveau parody with ice cream. Phyllo-wrapped crème brûlée suggests custard encased in logs of shredded wheat. Maybe it's a sign of breakfast coming. Bay Kitchen Bar must be pretty at dawn, too.