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Biscuits & Barbeque: Smokin' in Mineola once again

Big as a softball and dusted with black

Big as a softball and dusted with black pepper, the biscuit served at Biscuits & Barbeque in Mineola can make dreams come true. (October 2012) Credit: Newsday / Joan Reminick

Biscuits & Barbeque, a casual Louisiana-style restaurant that opened a few months ago, is now back in business, having lost power after Sandy hit. The eatery makes its home in the vintage Mineola railroad car diner whose last occupant was Kiss The Chef. Co-owners Joan Gallo and Tom Sullivan also own the 15-year-old Delta Grill in midtown Manhattan; executive chef Robert Bouyer hails from Louisiana’s Cajun country and divides his time between both restaurants.

The Mineola kitchen is equipped with an electric smoker that uses wood chips — mesquite, apple wood, hickory — to slow-smoke its ribs and chicken. But before any talk of barbecue, there are the biscuits.

And, oh, what biscuits. This I learned on an evening shortly before Sandy hit. A single biscuit ($2) is big as a softball, capable of feeding at least two, maybe even four. Golden brown and lightly dusted with black pepper, it was warm, flaky, moist —  all-out delectable. One minor cavil: I'd have preferred just plain butter to the raspberry and honey butters that accompanied it.

Deeply smoky, spice-crusted ribs ($14.95 half rack) are accompanied by a choice of two sides — I got smoky, saucy baked beans and very good collards. An order of macaroni and cheese ($7) proved melty, crusty, irresistible. 

Share the homey warm peach cobbler with vanilla ice cream ($6) with someone you care about and live in the moment.

Biscuits & Barbecue is at 106 E 2nd St., Mineola, 516-493-9797.

Above: A biscuit at Biscuits & Barbeque

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