It's Bastille Day weekend: liberty, fraternity, escargots.
The number of French restaurants on Long Island is in single digits. There are few that stick to the real thing without making safety-first forays into Italian, New American and other cuisines. These three are mostly Gallic, very good, and show some joie de vivre.
Bistro Cassis in Huntington has stayed true to the cause for 15 years. It's a warm, cozy spot. And after a couple of sips and bites, you'll start humming "La Marseillaise." Recommended: oysters; frisee salade aux lardons; escargots; steak frites; steak au poivre; hanger steak Bordelaise; sole meunière; duck breast and confit of leg; roast chicken for one or two. Moderate to expensive.
Bistro Cassis, 55-B Wall St., Huntington, 631-421-4122, bistrocassis.com
Aperitif in Rockville Centre brings you a taste of French fare along with pleasing, evocative ambience and good service. Recommended: mussels marinière; sole meunière; duck a l'orange; duck rillettes; coq au vin; beef Bourguignon; grilled hanger steak; pistachio-crusted rack of lamb; profiteroles; apple tart. Moderate to expensive.
Aperitif, 242 Sunrise Hwy., Rockville Centre, 516-594-3404, aperitifbistro.com
Le Soir in Bayport offers some Gallic flair and an easygoing, country-style setting to put you in the right mood. Recommended: poached bay scallops; escargots; oysters mignonette; chicken fricassee; steak au poivre; sole amandine; herb-crusted rack of lamb; braised sweetbreads; and, if available, floating island for dessert. Moderate to expensive.
Le Soir, 825 Montauk Hwy., Bayport, 631-472-9090, lesoirbayport.com