Bastille Day is Sunday. Join the revolution with some fine French food at these restaurants, which make alliances with other cuisines, too.
Bistro Cassis in Huntington is a warm, cozy spot with dependably satisfying French dishes, and a dining room seasoned with a hint of romance. Recommended: vichyssoise, oysters mignonette, escargots with garlic-herb butter, grilled hanger steak Bordelaise, seared black cod Basquaise, roast chicken for one or two, caramelized onion tart with goat cheese, house salad with beets, Roquefort, and poached leeks. Moderate to expensive.
Bistro Cassis, 55-B Wall St., Huntington, 631-421-4122, bistrocassis.com
Brasserie Cassis in Plainview is a big, buoyant restaurant with an evocative, playful design and a mood that transports you from its shopping-center location. Recommended: frisee aux lardons, salade Nicoise, tuna tartare, mussels mariniere, roast chicken for one or two, steak frites, steak au poivre, steak tartare, duck confit tacos, sole meuniere, beef a la Bourguignonne, braised lamb shank. Moderate to expensive.
Brasserie Cassis, 387 S. Oyster Bay Rd., Plainview, 516-653-0090, brasseriecassis.com
Aperitif in Rockville Centre gingerly waves the tricolor and supplements the French choices with dishes that have broad appeal. Recommended: shellfish platter, cured meats, cheeses, zucchini pancakes, shrimp-and-asparagus crepe, fig-and-goat cheese tart, Baja-style fish tacos, shrimp beignets, sole en papillote, duck a l'orange, steak frites, beef a la Bourguignonne, grilled lamb chops. Moderate to expensive.
Aperitif, 242 Sunrise Hwy., Rockville Centre, 516-594-3404, aperitifbistro.com