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Bistro Cassis in Huntington: Still premier cru

Berry napoleon at Cassis in Huntington. (Aug. 2012)

Berry napoleon at Cassis in Huntington. (Aug. 2012) Credit: Newsday Peter M. Gianotti

New restaurants always get the buzz and the words. But sometimes, returning to an established place can seem new, too.

That's the case at Bistro Cassis, a mainstay in downtown Huntington that's even more appealing now. It manages to be both cozy and buoyant, a bit of bistro seasoned with brasserie.  Service is friendly and accommodating. And the food often is excellent.

Roast chicken for two, generous and flavorful, embodies the place. Likewise, the juicy hanger steak Bordelaise, bubbling onion soup, chocolate mousse and poached pear. And the berry napoleon, which isn't a classic mille-feuille, is a very tasty variation on the theme.

There are specials each day, from tonight's coq au vin to tomorrow's bouillabaisse. But you'll enjoy Bistro Cassis anytime.

Bistro Cassis, 55B Wall St., Huntington; 631-421-4122.

Berry mille-feuille at Bistro Cassis.

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