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The hoisin-ginger marinated skirt steak lies on a

The hoisin-ginger marinated skirt steak lies on a bed of mashed potatoes and spinach and is topped with a stack of onion rings at Bliss Squared, a New American restaurant in Blue Point. (Dec. 23, 2009) Photo Credit: Newsday/Mahala Gaylord

Bliss2 raises Bliss to the second power. The cozy offspring of the East Setauket original arrives with plenty of good food and feeling to match. It's designed along the same lines, with warm hues, polished wood and a friendly bar, complete with TV tuned to sports.

The comfortable lounge becomes a stage for live music on weekends, with an appealing guitarist setting the mood on Saturday night. Evocative, sharp black-and-white nature photos on canvas artfully decorate the dining room. The spare, refined style extends to most of the plating, too. That will attract you. The warm and welcoming staff ensures you'll return.


A special of airy gnocchi Bolognese blissfully starts dinner, or works as a main dish, in a light, flavorful meat sauce. The creamy firm-grained risotto with tender sweet sea scallops and asparagus rivals it. Tasty crab cakes benefit from a mix of horseradish and tarragon. Pair them with the pear-and-Gorgonzola cheese salad for an opening duet. The kitchen sends out a juicy, grilled pork tenderloin in red wine sauce, extending like wheel spokes from a hillock of pureed potatoes and broccoli rabe. Slices of hoisin-and-ginger-marinated skirt steak appear to sprout from a mound of sauteed spinach that's capped by two buttermilk-batter, tempura onion rings. The homey, savory pot roast does get a little dandified with a pasta "millefeuille" and vegetables, plus truffle oil and Parmesan foam. Seaside, the pine nut-crusted red snapper swims ahead, with roasted-garlic couscous and crown of pineapple salsa. The fragile, updated version of a fruit tart leads the sweets.


Beer-and-Cheddar fondue is on the thin side and pretty bland. The bread cubes make you long for a crusty baguette; the wonton-wrap zucchini, limp broccoli and carrots, almost anything else. Goat-cheese ravioli in brown butter: standard. Likewise, the prosciutto and goat-cheese fritter salad, stuffed portobello mushroom, and fried calamari. The ganache-packed chocolate marquise could use a bit more of the bittersweet; the dessert fondue, imagination.


Neighborhood star.

Bliss2 is located at 154 Montauk Hwy., Blue Point,

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