Into the Hicksville swim jumps Blue Fish, a sleek- looking Japanese restaurant attached to a Days Inn.
I stop in for lunch and find a dramatically dark front room with a lounge-y aura (big bar, cozy booths); a separate sushi bar area is brighter and furnished with tables. Just how trendy is the place? Gender assignments of restrooms are distinguished not by signs but by the glow of pink or blue light visible through frosted glass doors.
I order the chirashi lunch, which comes with miso soup and salad. The sushi chef sends out a gratis kani salad, spicy-sweet. My chirashi features tuna, salmon, fluke and mackerel, everything impeccably fresh, attractively arranged beside a mound of well-seasoned rice. The only problem is that the fish is too cold. And am I the only one who feels that the presence of crab stick brings down the overall level of any raw fish assortment?
A glance at the menu reveals a roster of dinner boxes, all $19 and inclusive of soup, salad, California roll and shumai plus a choice of two items from a list containing the usual Japanese faves: teriyaki, sushi, negimaki — you can fill in the rest. There's also a more ambitious (and expensive) entree roster listing grilled Angus steak, miso black cod and, at $36, a surf and turf combo (filet mignon and lobster tail).
The entire crew is upbeat, welcoming, helpful. Another plus: a 10 percent discount on everything during Blue Fish's first month or so, as it gets used to the water.
Blue Fish is at 828 S. Oyster Bay Rd., Hicksville, 516-605-0655, bluefishli.com.