73° Good Afternoon
73° Good Afternoon

"Five flavor sashimi" is a popular menu item at Blue Fish, a new Japanese restaurant in Hicksville. (April 10, 2010) Credit: Bruce Gilbert

The sign outside the Days Inn advertises low weekly rates and, a few lines down, "restaurant." Blue Fish makes you want to check in.

This sparkling Japanese eatery succeeds a series of dismal dining rooms that took up space adjoining the motel. The remade rooms keep little more than the footprint. Open 10-foot doors and enter a red-dominated lounge sporting an illuminated, onyx bar. Enter the sushi salon, glittery in a cool-blue hue. Along this stretch of South Oyster Bay Road, it's like Vegas. And the food has flair to spare.


Order spicy tuna dumplings, wrapped in wonton skin and deep-fried, capped with a round of jalapeño pepper. It's your wake-up call. The artfully arranged rectangles of flavor dubbed a "tuna pizza" also have a peppery kick, plus cilantro, avocado and a snappy citrus glaze - fine foils for the velvety fish.

The "5-flavor sashimi" delivers a skyline of tuna, white tuna, yellowtail, salmon and king crab, each with a tasty crown, from mango salsa to wasabi-yuzu sauce. Seared salmon finished with sea salt and plum sauce is topped with black olives. And the white tuna "sandwich" is a playful winner.

Competition comes from colorful sushi rolls. They're harmonious, tasty choices, especially compared with over-orchestrated productions elsewhere. The "volcano," complete with a flaming oyster shell accompaniment, includes shrimp tempura, avocado, roe and tuna, wrapped in a union of soybean, seaweed and apple salsa.

Highlighting the cooked: tender steak teriyaki with bok choy, pan-fried pork dumplings, miso-glazed black cod.


The familiar sushi and sashimi are fresh and good. Fried calamari goes international in a Thai-style sweet-hot sauce. Satisfactory shrimp-and-vegetable tempura, stir-fried udon noodles and miso soup; standard ice-cream desserts, better fried banana.



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