Sleek, contemporary good looks are one lure at the new Bonefish Grill in Rockville Centre. So, too, are valet parking and polished, professional service. True, the place is part of a huge national chain, one that’s already spawned another branch in Lake Grove. But this is, at least, a chain that’s figured out how to reel people in with the promise of gracious dining at moderate prices.
A recent dinner began with “cold snap” ceviche ($7.90), a citrusy mix of shrimp, squid, avocado, scallops and cilantro, everything cool and vibrant, served with warm nacho chips. Upon closer inspection of the menu, I saw that the ceviche was supposed to have been presented in a glass made entirely of ice. Glad mine didn’t come that way; who wants icy-cold fish? Later, I learned that the dish can be requested either way. Another winning starter was a signature item, bang bang shrimp ($10.50), or fried shellfish in a spicy cream sauce. Understandably, a real people-pleaser. An entree of wood-grilled ahi tuna ($17.90) came out rare as ordered. Although you can pick one of several sauces (like the too-sweet mango salsa or soy-based “pan-Asian” sauce), my feeling is that the fish works best alone. On the side: shredded spaghetti squash and French green beans.
Right now, the Rockville Centre restaurant doesn’t offer lunch on weekdays (although the Lake Grove branch does). This, however, may change pending local rulings.
Bonefish Grill is at 340 Sunrise Hwy., Rockville Centre, 516-766-1238 and also at Smith Haven Mall, Lake Grove, 631-724-4012, bonefishgrill.com