Pasta and pizza, two of Long Island's major food groups, are the meat and potatoes of Borrelli's.
Here's an upbeat, easygoing spot that has been serving the staples since Ernest Borgnine played "Marty."
The decor is the essence of kitsch. But you're not here for appearances.
Borrelli's gets you with the veal Parmigiana hero and the chicken alla cacciatora; all the "specialty pastas" and pizzas are good enough to make you move nearby. The restaurant revels in lasagna and possesses a keen understanding of the virtues of eggplant. Sauteed escarole gets its due, too.
Cannoli and espresso are the mandatory finales.