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Brewology of Speonk

295 Montauk Hwy. Speonk , NY 631-801-6221

Brewology, a gastropub that boasts 24 beers on

Brewology, a gastropub that boasts 24 beers on tap, in Speonk. Credit: Doug Young

Type:

Beer, Burgers

Price range:

$$$ (Expensive)

Description:

New to Speonk, Brewology is a gastropub that's precise and systematic in almost every way. Stepping inside is terrific, full of reclaimed wood and recycled metal, exposed brick and subway tile. Even better are the 24 taps and a board of daily beers served in fun beaker-style glasses. Though there are a few misses, this spot is a mixture of science and art--and pretty good food.

Hours:

Open every day. Mondays to Thursdays 4 to 10 p.m.; Fridays and Saturdays 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m.; Sundays 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m.

Ambience:

Very Good

Service:

Excellent

Reservations:

Recommended

Credit cards:

Accepted

Accessibility:

Steps at main entrance

Notable dishes:

scallop BLT, short-rib burger, Pan-seared striped bass

Website

Reservations

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Critic review

The scallop BLT comes highly recommended, serving up

The scallop BLT comes highly recommended, serving up plump shellfish and smoky bacon, at Brewology in Speonk. Credit: Doug Young

Chef Lia Fallon has left Brewology.

Brewology refers to the science of beer. And this gastropub is very systematically, precisely and meticulously put together in almost every way.

It looks terrific, full of reclaimed wood and recycled metal, exposed brick and subway-style tile. There are whimsical, colorful images of Darwin and Nobel, and Einstein famously sticking out his tongue.

The bar boasts 24 taps and a board of daily beers designed like a periodic table of the brews. A striking, boxed, illuminated "Br" symbol suggests part of the "Breaking Bad" logo; the element bromine; and a bright intro to Brewology.

Start by ordering a four-brew flight, served in beaker-style glasses. Among the distinctive pours: Hitachino Red Rice Ale and Browerij Bosteels Tripel Karmeliet. Instead of a bread basket come addictive pretzels and mustard. Yes, that's a piece of charcoal in your milk-bottle water service.

Chef Lia Fallon's fare generally complements the brews. Fallon is known for her refined cooking at the now-closed Amarelle in Wading River, The Riverhead Project, and Jedediah Hawkins Inn in Jamesport. Brewology seems more of a challenge.

Her top starters include fig-a-licious, a union of "torched" fruit, good greens, Saint Agur blue cheese, candied pecans and a balsamic-vinegar reduction; and the grilled flatbread du jour, notably one capped with goat cheese, Parmesan, spinach and bacon.

But the pickle plate is exceedingly mild; the charcuterie selection, uneven. Overdone fried frogs' legs have a peel-away pretzel crust. "Sweet and sassy" shrimp stresses the sweet. The brew chowder of shellfish floats undercooked potatoes. The warm crab crock is a bland shellfish-and-Taleggio cheese fondue.

Chicken and waffles are just dull. Thin, deep-fried rib-eye steak is tender, but marred by its gritty espresso rub. L.I. cheesesteak brings in duck breast, smoked Gouda, orange-glazed onions and watercress, all of which implode on a grilled bun. The Brewology burger is stuffed with pulled pork and sweetened even more with beer-braised onions.

Instead, order the juicy, expertly charred short-rib burger with Cheddar cheese. Try the fine smoked pork belly with maple-bean ragout. The scallop BLT is very good, with plump, nutty shellfish, halved and layered with smoked bacon, heirloom tomatoes, wilted bok choy and tomato aioli. There's a "fin" of the day. Pan-seared striped bass is excellent.

Skip the overblown desserts, from beeramisu to deconstructed cheesecake, in favor of Brewery Ommegang's meditative brew, Three Philosophers, which includes cherries-added ale, for a sip of science and art.