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Brewology in Speonk: First bites

"Fig-a-licious" is an appetizer with "torched" figs, blue

"Fig-a-licious" is an appetizer with "torched" figs, blue cheese, candied pecans and greens at Brewology in Speonk. August 2014. Credit: Newsday / Peter M. Gianotti

Brewology, Long Island's newest gastropub, in Speonk, looks terrific and pours some outstanding beers.

Maybe the food will catch up.

Chef Lia Fallon's refined cooking excelled at restaurants as different from each other as now-closed Amarelle in Wading River, Bistro 72 in Riverhead, The Riverhead Project and the Jedediah Hawkins Inn in Jamesport.

At this artfully designed spot, the interior of which would fit neatly into north Williamsburg, her emphasis is on what at first seems to be the kind of full-flavored stuff that goes with the beer. So far, the results are uneven.

Good pretzels and mustard arrive as your bread service. But then you order a pickle plate and charcuterie selection, one duller than the other. Then, the very good "fig-a-licious" combo of "torched" figs with blue cheese, greens and candied pecans spurs your appetite.

But the namesake burger, made with short rib, also takes in pulled pork and is mushy and overly sweet;  the Long Island riff on a Philly cheesesteak, made with duck, is even sweeter and mushier, with orange-glazed onions and smoked Gouda. Fried frogs' legs: overdone and dark as a Brazil nut.

For now, have a flight of beers. And eat more pretzels.

Brewology,  295 Montauk Hwy., Speonk; 631-801-6221.



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