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Bridgehampton: First bite, Southfork Kitchen

Endlessly hyped, mercilessly blogged, long anticipated, Southfork Kitchen is open. It's a sustainable way to start the Hamptons' season.

This stirring, high-style operation is devoted to the reclaimed and the enviro-friendly. The floor is from a barn; the bar, fashioned from a dumpster. Beams are bare. Pipes top banquettes. Nassau bricks form the entryway. Blue Ocean Institute's "ocean friendly seafood" list is part of the table setting.

Chef Joe Isidori, whose local experience included a stint at the departed Pacific East in Amagansett, returns to the East End by way of Miami Beach  and Las Vegas. Southfork debuted in autumn, shut for the winter, reopened in March.

You'll enjoy Isidori's his meticulously prepared and presented fare, starting with crisp Mediterranean sardines, paired with aioli, salsa verde and a spin on tapenade. Also: pan-roasted rainbow trout, finished with Meyer lemon, English peas and hazelnuts. There a sweet-salty union of butterscotch pudding paired with popcorn and ice cream for dessert. The cheese plate extols Mecox Bay Dairy; the duck, Jurgielewicz.

The menu is a $55, three-course, fixed-price affair. You should taste it before the onslaught.

Southfork Kitchen, 203 Bridgehampton-Sag Harbor Tpke. (north of Route 27), Bridgehampton; 631-537-4700.

Rainbow trout ...

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