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Burton & Doyle in Great Neck: First bites

The "triple spicy" sushi roll at Burton &

The "triple spicy" sushi roll at Burton & Doyle in Great Neck includes tuna, yellowtail and crab. January 2015. Credit: Newsday / Peter M. Gianotti

Northern Boulevard in Great Neck must be Long Island's most clogged artery. It's steakhouse row.

Burton & Doyle, one of the strip's beef houses, was sold last year and is undergoing a major renovation, in the design and on the menu.

You'll find a brighter, airier dining room. The dark, dark wood is pretty much gone. The columns that used to signal supreme clubbiness now are red. And there's more emphasis on seafood.

That starts with sushi. Among the specialty rolls: a good "triple spicy" production with tuna, yellowtail, crab, avocado, roe, and spicy mayo. The raw bar offerings include fine Kumamoto oysters. Grilled octopus is satisfying, too.

The porterhouse for two or more remains a staple, and it's a juicy, hefty cut. But skip the overcooked Kobe beef sliders. Seaside, the steamed lobster is a reliable choice.

Prices are pretty high, effortlessly hitting $100 per person at dinner. But on "wine down Fridays," there's 50 percent off bottles costing $150 and up. You've been warned.

Burton & Doyle, 661 Northern Blvd., Great Neck; 516-487-9200.

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