Cafe Testarossa is running on all cylinders.
The restaurant, now almost equal parts Italian and New American, is more than two decades old. It has had a few lives over the years.
But the food currently is sharper and better than before, whether you're in the mood for spaghetti and meatballs or a heritage pork chop on sweet potatoes.
A very good starter: marinated and grilled octopus, tender, flavorful, finished with escarole, crushed tomatoes and chickpeas. Also recommended is a tasty special of pan-seared halibut with an "aioli breadcrumb" crust. And the cantilevered, caramelized banana napoleon crackles perfectly.
If you haven't been here in while, come back. If you've never been, reserve a table. Expect a smooth ride.
Cafe Testarossa, 499 Jericho Tpke., Syosset; 516-364-8877.