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Cedar Creek in Glen Cove: 2nd chef, 1st bites

Fried macaroni and cheese appetizer at Cedar Creek

Fried macaroni and cheese appetizer at Cedar Creek American Bar and Grill in Glen Cove. (Feb. 2012) Credit: Newsday/Peter M. Gianotti

Cedar Creek American Bar & Grill, one of my Top 11 restaurants of 2011, greeted 2012 with a new chef and a revised menu. You'll welcome the updated eatery.

Chef David Dunn prepares excellent  "gastropub steak frites," a juicy sirloin angled on a hillock of spinach, paired with crisp fries and a blue cheese "fondue," or dip. He also sends out a tasty spin on chicken potpie that looks a little like a sandwich: savory chicken and vegetables with a sage-seasoned jus completed with a fragile layer of puff pastry on top and underneath.

Fried macaroni-and-cheese turns the staple into mouthfuls of crunch, creamy inside, circling a serving of marinara. Very good opener, ideal with drinks. Also recommended: fried oysters with cole slaw and tartar sauce. But lobster bisque has the consistency of tomato soup and is short on shellfish flavor.

As before, service is excellent.

And it's time for a return visit.

Cedar Creek American Bar & Grill, 75 Cedar Swamp Rd., Glen Cove; 516-656-5656.

Fried macaroni-and-cheese at Cedar Creek.

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