Mill Pond House, the waterside mainstay on Route 25A in Centerport, always has had basic appeal. The location alone is attractive. Service: professional. Food: dependable. Now, the kitchen rivals the view.
David Intonato, who earned three stars at Jamesport Manor Inn, is the executive chef at Mill Pond. He has fine-tuned the menu, adding some creative fare to the already flavorful combo of steaks and seafood. Reason to return.
Standout dishes include a seviche of scallop and shrimp with charred heirloom tomatoes; and roasted Montauk swordfish, topped with miso-wasabi aioli and toasted panko bread crumbs, on a warm quinoa, edamame, heirloom tomato and wild mushroom salad.
Twice-roasted Crescent Farm duck is juicy and rich, finished with kiwi-orange sauce. And what's billed as lobster home fries actually works: sweet shellfish, spicy cherry peppers, caramelized onions, spuds and Sriracha-spiked creme fraiche.
That tiki bar is fun, too.
Mill Pond House, 437 E. Main St., Centerport; 631-261-7663.
Mill Pond House ... room with a view.