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Centro Cucina: Happy midweek in Greenvale

At Centro Cucina in Greenvale, a pizza is

At Centro Cucina in Greenvale, a pizza is topped with prosciutto, arugula, cherry tomatoes and mozzarella. (Oct. 16, 2012) Credit: Newsday / Erica Marcus

A good meal at Centro Cucina, the little restaurant whose modest dining room belies an ambitious, rigorous Italian kitchen.

We started with two bright salads, the Centro, sliced pear and shaved pecorino over arugula, and the Campo, a very Sicilian affair of shaved fennel and sliced oranges.  Both could have used more fruity olive oil and tart lemon juice, but at least neither was dressed with my bete noir, balsamic vinaigrette.

Next up: two pizzas from the wood-burning oven. The restrained robiolina pizza is actually naked focaccia split and stuffed with arugula, truffle oil and robiolina, a tangier Italian version of cream cheese. (I wish it had been a little less restrained, with more creamy, oozy cheese.) The prosciutto pizza is topped with a fine abundance of prosciutto, arugula, cherry tomatoes and fresh mozzarella. That didn’t last long on the table.

It was just salad and pizza, but the service was expert and from the good, well-priced wine list we enjoyed a good, well-priced Nero d’Avola. Weekend nights at Centro can be a bit of a mob scene (understandably) but on a Tuesday evening, it really hit the spot.

Centro Cucina is at 43 Glen Cove Rd., Greenvale, 516-484-3880.

Photo: Prosciutto pizza at Centro Cucina, Greenvale.

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