At this big bi-level spot, highly credentialed Sichuan chef Ding Gen Wang offers a high degree of culinary authenticity. Since this is, after all, Long Island, the restaurant is equipped with a sushi bar. As fresh and well-cut as the raw fish turns out to be, the kitchen dishes are the main draw.
Recommendations include smoked tofu with Chinese celery, a cold appetizer almost startling in its sprightliness, West Lake beef soup and cumin fried lamb, which unleashes a slow, seductive burn. Shredded pork with dry bean curd is a bold and smoky number. And you'll want to keep your chopsticks busy with shredded duck and string beans in a subtly electric black pepper sauce.