For some time, Long Island's once-thriving Chinese restaurant scene has been shrinking as more and more Chinese-owned restaurants opt for Asian fusion menus. But the tide seems to be turning. In the last year or so, a number of Chinese eateries have opened, some quite authentic, and some hewing to a more Americanized tradition. Here are a few of the best.
The authentic fare of Sichuan is the specialty of Sichuan-born chef Ding Gen Wang. Standouts include smoked tofu with Chinese celery, spicy cumin fried lamb, and shredded pork with dry bean curd.
LUNA GARDEN, 170 Jericho Tpke., Syosset, 516-864-2738
This simply appointed Chinese-American newcomer serves up such old-time specialties as egg foo young, barbecued spareribs and kung pao delight, made with chicken, shrimp and beef.
Situated near Stony Brook University, this multiregional Chinese restaurant offers such authentic dishes as shrimp dumpling soup, cumin tofu and walnut shrimp with mayonnaise.
GOLDEN DYNASTY, 416 N. Country Rd., St. James, 631-250-9888
Chinese nostalgia classics, like barbecued spareribs, scallion pancakes and shrimp lo mein, are served with style at this classy Chinese newcomer whose roots in St. James go back more than two decades.