Andel’s, the last of Long Island’s old-fashioned appetizing stores, has closed in Roslyn Heights.
“Appetizing” here refers to the panoply of smoked and cured fish without which no Jewish brunch (or shiva) is complete. Lox, whitefish and sable can now be found in most bagel stores and supermarkets, and in many delis and fish stores — and it must be said that while Andel’s started as an appetizing-only store in the 1950s, it eventually added deli meats and sandwiches to the mix.
Andel's was located on Roslyn Road just south of the Expressway in the Suburban Shopping Center a few doors up from Holiday Farms.
By me, the store with the narrowest range often offers the greatest expertise. Frankly, I never understood the difference between lox and Nova Scotia salmon until Andel’s owner, Jonathan Geschwind, explained it to me.
Lox: Salmon that has been soaked in brine
Belly lox: Lox from the trimmed midsection, the fattiest part of the fish
Nova Scotia salmon (aka Novi or Novi lox): Salmon that has been wet-cured in a not-too-salty brine and then cold-smoked
Scottish smoked salmon: Salmon that has been dry-cured (packed in salt), then cold-smoked
Gravlax: Salmon that has been dry-cured with a mixture of salt, sugar, dill and spices and weighted to extract as much moisture as possible
Kippered (aka baked) salmon: Salmon that has been lightly brined, then hot-smoked