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Cotillion Lounge, Jericho: First bites

Sweet corn soup with chicken is served at

Sweet corn soup with chicken is served at Cotillion Lounge in Jericho. Credit: Newsday, 2011 / Joan Reminick

At the new Cotillion Lounge, a chic little Indian-Chinese-Thai restaurant embedded in a Jericho catering hall, the room is bathed in purplish light. I also hear strains of Indian-pop music from a nearby ballroom. Yet no sensory distractions keep my attention from the corn soup with chicken that shimmers in the bowl set before me. One sip and I’m warmed throughout. My dining companion’s manchow soup (a garlicky, spicy chicken vegetable soup of the nomadic Hakka Indian people in China) is shot through with nuance and fire. I happily go back and forth from one bowl to the other.

Tandoori chicken is a dish that can be chokingly dry. But not here. The poultry sizzles on a platter, its skin a deep vermilion overlaid by a coat of spices. I cut into a piece and it spurts juices. I taste it, and it is even more moist and savory than anticipated. Another dish, chili garlic noodles with vegetables, ignites my palate. I want more.

Cotillion Lounge at 440 Jericho Tpke., Jericho; 516-938-3300.

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