You could call De Jesus Deli Taqueria the revenge of the north road.
Riverhead is certainly well served by taquerias, but all of them seem to congregate along the south road, Route 25. Smack downtown are Las Mexicanas Tacos (40 E. Main St.) and Taqueria Cielito Lindo (29 E. Main St.). Heading east, once you cross the LIRR tracks, you’ll see the stalwart Taqueria Mexico at 709 E. Main St.
But two-month-old De Jesus on Route 58 (Old Country Road) is tucked inside Roanoke Plaza between T.J. Maxx and Best Market and, since it opens at 7 a.m. — at least three hours before its three southern competitors — it’s a great stop for breakfast. Mexican breakfasts include huevos rancheros ($6.49), breakfast burrito ($5.99) or your choice of tamale on a torta roll ($3.99). Of course nothing is stopping you from having a taco or two (at $2.99 a pop): I ordered one lengua (beef tongue) and one al pastor (marinated grilled pork) and found them a fine way to start the day.
De Jesus Deli Taqueria, 1110 Old Country Rd., Riverhead, 631-591-2700.