Hicksville does not have a monopoly on ambitious, regional Indian restaurants. Case in point: Deccan Spice, which opened recently in Deer Park.
“Deccan” refers to a geological plateau in Southern India, one of whose major cities is Hyderabad. It’s the Hyderabadi rice dish, biryani, that is the specialty of Deccan Spice. The menu lists 15 biryanis featuring chicken (in various guises) as well as vegetables, cheese, fish and shrimp.
There are also scores of curries (vegetarian and non), tandoori meats, Indo-Chinese dishes and breads including roti, naan, kulcha and paratha. On Wednesdays, the restaurant also serves South Indian classics such as dosas, idli and uttapam. Most entrees are well under $15. The lunchtime all-you-can-eat buffet is $10.99 on weekdays, $13.99 on weekends.
The strip-mall storefront, which succeeds Namaste America, has a vaguely tiki-bar vibe with thatched roofs overhanging some of the tables.
Deccan Spice is at 526 Commack Rd., Deer Park, 631-940-3232.