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Diane's Bakery/Cafe, Roslyn: Queen of quiches

The mushroom and spinach quiche at Diane's Bakery

The mushroom and spinach quiche at Diane's Bakery in Roslyn may look ordinary, but appearances deceive. (September 2012) Credit: Newsday/Joan Reminick

There’s quiche and then there’s the quiche at Diane’s Bakery/Cafe in Roslyn — flaky and buttery of crust, supremely creamy on the inside, eradicating all memories of the flabby, soggy-crusted pies that ruled the '70s.

Mine was made with spinach and mushrooms ($8.25 for a whole 5-inch quiche). The day I went, the quiche was available as a by-the-slice special ($4.25). Although served inelegantly on a paper plate, it was impossible to stop eating -- this, after having had a piece of very good salmon teriyaki with a bright watercress-chickpea salad, part of an array of lunch items sold at $13.25 a pound.

After my not-so-small repast, I moved on to the bakery counter and requested something small and decidedly chocolate. The two little moist and fudgy walnut-studded chocolate clusters ($17 a pound) more than fit the bill.

Like the nearby Trattoria Diane, the bakery/cafe is co-owned by the married culinary team of pastry chef Diane Margaritis and chef John Durkin. Although the building looks old, it was actually erected in 1982, its interior designed by Margaritis’ brother, Albert.

Keep in mind that seating can be tight in the cafe area behind the bakery, but there are tables out in back in good weather, as well as a comfortable upstairs dining space.

Diane’s Bakery/Cafe is at 23 Bryant Ave. Roslyn, 516-621-2522

Above: The spinach-mushroom quiche at Diane's Bakery/Cafe in Roslyn

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