Doppio Artisan Bistro definitely has its own slice of Huntington.
It's the offspring of Doppio in Greenwich, Conn., and arrives with a similar devotion to fine pizzas, pastas, panini and the main courses that you'd expect to follow them.
But this isn't a formulaic restaurant. The food often is very good, served with skill at a sometimes noisy spot that fits neatly into the competitive, fertile territory of a busy downtown.
This had been the recent home of Twisted Vine and XO Wine & Chocolate Bar. Enjoyable, engaging Doppio merits a longer stay.
In part, that's because of the thin-crust, blistered pizzas from executive chef and co-owner Louis Barresi. The pizzas are headlined either red or white.
The diavola definitely sees red with tomatoes, mozzarella, basil and cacciatorini, the spicy dry sausage from Calabria. For a subtler red pie, sample the prosciutto di Parma number, with tomatoes, fresh mozzarella, arugula, prosciutto and shavings of Parmesan cheese.
Leading the white pizzas are the Bel Haven with fresh mozzarella, sweet Gorgonzola, grilled pear and truffle oil; and The Greenwich, with smoked mozzarella, Taleggio cheese, porcini mushrooms and prosciutto di Parma. A special layered with sliced potatoes, guanciale and Taleggio also is excellent.
Post- or pre-pizza, nibble on Doppio's assorted small plates. The bruschetta Trentino, with Gorgonzola, speck and a drizzle of balsamic vinegar, is delicious, as is the arancino Siciliano, an Arborio rice ball packed with peas, beef and Parmesan cheese.
The house's pastas are led by fusilli in cartoccio, a superior hand-rolled, production cooked with porcini mushrooms, heirloom tomatoes, mascarpone cheese and truffle oil.
Fettuccine Bolognese, with a first-class meat sauce; and pappardelle with porcini mushrooms, cream and truffle oil almost rival it. The husky meat lasagna is homey and very good. But bucatini alla carbonara turns out surprisingly thin and bland.
No such problem affects the chargrilled, sliced strip steak, with peppery arugula, cherry tomatoes and shavings of Parmesan cheese. Chicken scarpariello also is a generous, tasty main dish, boosted by cherry peppers, sweet sausage and roasted potatoes.
Chargrilled branzino materializes moist, accompanied by chopped broccoli rabe. Seared diver scallops benefit from the company of sauteed escarole, roasted peppers and pine nuts. Panini, with breads baked in-house, are uniformly good.
And while you may like the cinnamon-dusted apple tart or the creamy tiramisu, share the dessert pizza -- an apropos bit of whimsy with sliced banana and berries on Nutella.