My biggest challenge was staying out of the way of guests, managers, hostesses, waiters, sommeliers and busboys. I spent most of the evening trying to flatten myself against a wall behind the table closest to the door. At one point one of the diners turned around and said, “Are you a reporter?” I puffed up a little and said, “Yes, I’m from Newsday.” Whereupon he asked, “have you got a piece of paper I can write on?”
Anyway, Nick & Toni’s is one of those restaurants that could rest on its laurels but doesn’t — you’d be hard-pressed to find better food or service in the Hamptons. And Bonnie’s a star.
Nick & Toni’s is at 136 N. Main St., East Hampton, 631-324-3550.