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East Hampton Grill

Key lime pie at East Hampton Grill in

Key lime pie at East Hampton Grill in East Hampton. (June 2011) Newsday/Peter Gianotti Credit: Newsday/

East Hampton Grill definitely is a "summer scene." And it should be just as appealing from autumn to spring, too.

This handsome, new restaurant took over the former site of Della Femina, a local landmark for almost two decades. The dining room has been dramatically overhauled, full of polished wood, antiques and a view of the kitchen.

Go for executive chef Brian Stefano's refined take on American classics, as well as for his more contemporary dishes.

Those rosemary biscuits are essential, with a drizzle of honey. The crabcake salad, with grapefruit and avocado in a Champagne vinaigrette; and the Caesar salad with the addition of crisp, fried oysters, both stand out.

Expertly fried: the soft-shell crab po'boy, a rich version of the familiar sandwich. The house's slowly roasted, barbecued ribs arrive very tender. And the prime-rib roast with mashed potatoes is outstanding.

Atlantic cod, paired with bok choy and sticky rice, successfully brings in an Asian accent; oysters St. Charles, with creamed spinach, artichokes and lemon aioli, an eclectic touch. You'll also be tempted by the pan-fried Dover sole with sauce rémoulade, the pan-roasted Arctic char, and the chicken Waldorf. The obligatory sides are led by savory deviled eggs, which could do double duty as an appetizer.

For dessert, the Key lime pie provides a tangy taste of Florida; the hot-fudge sundae, a playful summer pleasure that crosses borders. All this is served by a very professional, hospitable staff, under dining-room manager John Kim.

East Hampton Grill, 99 N. Main St., East Hampton; 631-329-6666,; $$$

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