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East Meadow: Uncommon gyros

GyroLIcious in East Meadow makes three types of

GyroLIcious in East Meadow makes three types of gyro: pork, left, chicken, right, and beef/lamb. (Sept. 1, 2011) Photo Credit: Newsday/Erica Marcus

Most of the gyros you see rotating around Long Island are composed of goodness-knows-what. At GyroLIcious, they are made in the 3-year-old restaurant’s kitchen from actual fresh meat.

Co-owner Carie Volonakis told me that her chicken gyro is composed of two parts white meat, one part dark. The pork gyro is made of butt (shoulder) and belly. The beef and lamb gyro is a bit of a sore spot. When GyroLIcious first opened, Volonakis had the guys in the kitchen cutting lamb and veal off the bone and layering the slices of meat on the vertical spit. But too many of her customers wanted a more traditional American gyro made of ground meat and so she switched. “When we took the lamb-veal gyro off the menu,” she recalled, “our Greek customers cried.”

She’s held firm on the salad front. As in Greece, the horiatiki salad is composed of cucumbers, onion, tomatoes and feta cheese. No lettuce. (You want lettuce? Get the romaine salad.) Even more remarkable, the tomatoes are a deep red and taste like tomatoes.

GyroLIcious is at 2065 Hempstead Tpke., East Meadow, 516-280-2208.

Pork gyro (right) and chicken gyro at GyroLIcious

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