I never realized how many things can go wrong with an egg sandwich until this morning, when I had a perfect one at Hicksville Sweet Shop in Hicksville.
I usually hit the Sweet Shop in the evening when I’ve been working late and feel like having a chocolate malted for dinner. But this morning I was in Hicksville, so I stopped in for breakfast.
Let’s start with the bread. An English muffin is really ideal for a one-egg sandwich; it’s the right size, the right shape and has more integrity than your average kaiser roll. The grill man at the Sweet Shop broke the egg while it fried and this achieved two desired results: It allowed the yolk to expand into a larger circle — the better to get yolk into every bite — and it allowed him to cook every part of the egg to optimal doneness. The white was firm but not tough, the yolk was creamy but not runny. The bacon was fried very crisp so that it yielded easily to the bite. I hate it when the whole strip of bacon winds up in your mouth.
The sandwich was presented to me neatly cut in half, and I was able to cleanly finish it off without so much as a drip.
The Sweet Shop was established in 1925. Its current owners, Eva and Phillip Zouros and their son Harry, bought it in 1974. That’s a lot of egg sandwiches. No wonder they’re perfect.
Hicksville Sweet Shop is at 75 Broadway, Hicksville, 516-931-0130.