The little strip mall at the intersection of Commack Road and Long Island Avenue in Deer Park is having quite the gastronomic year. Hot on the heels of Right Coast Taqueria and Deccan Spice Indian restaurant comes FAN Chinese Cuisine, which takes over the spot that used to be Iron Chef.
It’s a bright, modern little eatery with an eager-to-please staff. The large menu is largely Sichuan (sliced ox tendon in chili sauce, wontons in hot chili sauce, cumin lamb, ma po tofu, spicy fish fillet with Sichuan peppercorn, spicy hot pots) with some detours around China (Taiwanese braised-beef noodle soup, Shanghai-style soup dumplings) as well as into the Chinese-American repertoire (egg rolls, General Tso’s chicken, beef with broccoli). Most starters range from $3.95 to $12.95; most mains from $10.95 $22.95.
FAN Chinese Cuisine is at 534 Commack Rd., Deer Park, 631-586-6888, fanchinesecuisine.com.