The essential Long Island restaurant combines pizzeria with casual Italian eatery. Most communities have at least one spot that stands astride these two necessities. Here are three to visit whenever you're near, either to eat in or for take out.
Fanatico in Jericho is a relative of Emilio's in Commack and Passione in Westbury, so you may already know what you want to order. Recommended: rice balls; the "Mamma Mia" meatball appetizer with ricotta, peppers, and garlic bread; stuffed artichoke; rigatoni Bolognese; pappardelle with roasted cauliflower in garlic and oil sauce; the "Bronx Tail" breaded veal cutlet with peppers, tomato sauce, provolone, and fusilli; the Grandpa pizza with mozzarella, red onion, marinara sauce, and seasoned breadcrumbs; the "old fashioned" marinara pizza, the "flame" pie with cherry peppers and spicy sausage. Moderate.
Fanatico, 336 N. Broadway, Jericho, 516-932-5080, fanatico-restaurant.com
Gino's of Williston Park is a top entry in the category, full of big flavors, homey cooking, and warm, friendly style, since 1979. Recommended: pasta e fagioli; escarole and beans; lentil soup; grilled calamari salad; eggplant rollatine; lasagna; manicotti; stuffed shells; spaghetti Milanese with cauliflower and toasted breadcrumbs; pasta con piselli; chicken Parmigiana; eggplant Parmigiana; asparagus and breadcrumb pizza; eggplant Parmigiana pizza; eggplant and ricotta pizza; broccoli rabe and sausage pizza; Margherita pizza; white pizza; calzone. Moderate.
Gino's of Williston Park, 628 Willis Ave., Williston Park, 516-746-2860, ginosofwillistonpark.com
Pennachio's in Manorville has a stellar history, specifically from the namesake owner-chef who earned three stars at the departed Pencenzo in New Hyde Park. Recommended: rigatoni Bolognese; manicotti; lasagna; eggplant Parmigiana; eggplant rollatine; seafood salad; spinach salad; mesclun salad with roasted walnuts, sliced pear, goat cheese, and raspberry vinaigrette; sausage and peppers; Grandma, Sicilian, Margherita, white, and pepperoni pizzas; hero sandwiches. Moderate.
Pennachio's, 460 County Road 111, Suite 2, Manorville, 631-281-0003 pennachiosofmanorville.com