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Farmingdale: Lunch at Bollinger's

At Bollinger's in Farmingdale, grilled bratwurst is accompanied

At Bollinger's in Farmingdale, grilled bratwurst is accompanied by sauerkraut, potato pancakes and red cabbage. Newsday / Erica Marcus (May 16, 2011) Photo Credit: Newsday / Erica Marcus

What a satisfying lunch we had at Bollinger’s in Farmingdale earlier this week. In the mood for neither sandwich nor salad, I had the bratwurst special, two fat grilled sausages alongside a heap of sauerkraut and accompanied by an even bigger heap of braised red cabbage and two good potato pancakes. Cabbage-lovers: This is your kind of lunch.

My pal had a textbook BLT preceded by an Italian wedding soup marred only by its being oversalted. A real shame since the meatballs were excellent, the broth (beneath the salt) had real meat flavor, the carrots a tender sweetness. A fried chicken cutlet salad was just OK. We also wondered why homemade salad dressing was beyond the obviously capable kitchen.

In September, Fred Bollinger sold his restaurant to new owners, Joe Tonelli and Jim Brennan. According to head waitress Jess Irving, the menu is being tweaked, but not greatly altered. Some new ice-cream flavors, among them raspberry-truffle, have joined the homemade lineup, the chili recipe has been rejiggered, as has the one for potato pancakes. I can attest to that last one’s success.

Bollinger's Family Restaurant is at 282 Main St., Farmingdale, 516-501-4990.

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