Into the ever-experimental realm of mondo pizza comes the "calzonizza."
Yes, you've put up with pizzas that have salad as a topping and Buffalo-style chicken as the big flavor. But Bellagio Pizzeria & Restaurant sends out a hybrid that deals with the essence of the subject and addresses structural integrity: the calzonizza is one- half ham-and-cheese calzone, one-half Neapolitan pie — or, the pizza that could not make up its mind.
Before you get too excited, this isn't a tall-one-side, flat-another construct. It's more like a culinary comb-over. You have the basic, thin-crust base, part of which has the standard mozzarella and tomato sauce; and half that has a spread of cheese with slices of ham that's then turned over.
It's the kind of production that could make you very decisive when choosing one or the other. Melded, the victory goes to the pizza.
Bellagio, which has about as much in common with the city as the Vegas casino's water show does with Lake Como, does prepare a good four-cheese pizzette, with mozzarella, provolone, ricotta and Gorgonzola; and a respectable eggplant Parmigiana hero. Lots of pastas, too, baked and not; salads; rolls and pinwheels; stuffed and deep-dish pizzas; appetizers such as Buffalo-style chicken wings and fried calamari; and familiar main dishes in the Parmigiana-Francese-Marsala orbit.
Bellagio Pizza & Restaurant, 211 Airport Plaza Blvd. (off Route 110), Farmingdale; 531-777-8282.
Where calzone meets pizza ...