Long Island Chinese restaurants, once headed for takeout doom, have been making a comeback. Here are three choices where you may join in the revival.
Sandwiched between Best Buy and BJas Wholesale Club<NO1>cq/pb<NO> in the Nassau Mall is time-capsule Fortune Wheel. Go for the dim sum and the seafood. Try steamed pork buns, fried chicken, Sichuan shrimp and either ginger-scallion lobster, lobster Cantonese, or lobster in black bean sauce. $$-$$$
3601 Hempstead Tpke., Levittown; 516-579-4700.
RED TIGER DUMPLING HOUSE
The name says almost everything. Come here for Shanghai-style soup dumplings, especially the steamed minced crab-and- ground pork combination. Also: pork soup dumplings, crystal shrimp dumplings, chicken dumplings, eggplant with garlic sauce, Singapore mei fun with curry, spring rolls. $$
1320 Stony Brook Rd., Stony Brook; 631-675-6899.
Far from a diner, Yaoas specializes in fiery Sichuan cuisine, seafood and offal. Notable: fried lamb with cumin, cool and peppery pickled cabbage, dry sauteed string beans, kung pao lotus root, anumbinga chicken, spicy sesame noodles, beef and tripe with hot pepper sauce. $$
2503 Middle Country Rd., Centereach; 631-588-2218.