I don’t ask much from lunch: a nice salad not drenched in balsamic vinaigrette, pasta sparingly sauced with a simple marinara, a good burger on a good roll. And yet, all too often, these minimal needs go unmet.
Today’s meal at Vittorio’s was an object lesson in thoughtful lunch service. Salads were made up of just a few types of fresh leaves—romaine with some mesclun thrown in for good measure—and dressed lightly with a lemon vinaigrette. One friend’s house salad was showered in Gorgonzola; another’s came with well-seared scallops and a few mandarin orange segments. Nothing fancy, just good. Penne was cooked well; the lively marinara sauce was something you'd be happy to have made at home. I had an excellent burger that someone in the kitchen had smartly seasoned before grilling. It was on an ideal bun: sesame-sprinkled, slightly smaller than the burger, pliant but not forgettable.
We were intrigued by the sound of chocolate-polenta cake, but it turned out to be a rather dense, overly sweet fudge tart, polenta not perceptible. Espresso could have been hotter, but the service was perfectly warm and efficient.
Vittorio’s is at 184 Broadway (Rte. 110), Amityville, 631-264-3333.
Newsday photo / Erica Marcus