It was the scent of bacon wafting through the streets of Wading River that pulled me into North Fork Bacon & Smokehouse. Last year, when I ate at the casual counter-serve BBQ house, all manner of slow-smoked meats (with the notable exception of bacon) were on hand. The place had simply run out of its namesake item. Not this time.
So, what better to order than a classic BLT? Mine was simply loaded with bacon, dark, smoky and intense. My only quibble with the sandwich was that the tomatoes (out of season, I know) didn't come up to the level of the other ingredients. The smoked brisket in my companion's sandwich turned out to be even better than remembered, the meat ultra-juicy, subtly imbued with the flavor of wood smoke.
Bear in mind that this quirky little spot is only open Friday to Sunday, from noon to 8 p.m. And when they run out of something it's, well, better luck next time.
North Fork Bacon & Smokehouse is at 1 Sound Rd., Wading River, 631-886-2220.