Feed Me

The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

Back in July, I had an astonishingly good bowl of pasta at Hildebrandt’s. “Pasta a la mama” turned out to be a very Sicilian combination of rigatoni, cauliflower, bread crumbs, olive oil and pecorino. So last night I decided to see if lightening could strike twice. I ordered the asiago-asparagus pasta and, while it was above average (way above average for an ice-cream parlor), it didn’t come close to Mama. Fusilli was overcooked, creamy sauce too loose and bland, asparagus not very much in evidence.

Meanwhile, my pal got the Mama and the two of us split a plate of Hildebrandt’s spectacular fries, which are nothing more than potatoes that have been sliced crosswise and then fried to a deep golden brown. I found that the fries were just the thing to scoop up the extra cream sauce left in my bowl.

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Hildebrandt’s is at 84 Hillside Ave., Williston Park, 516-741-0608.

Hildebrandt's fries. Newsday photo / Erica Marcus