Feed Me

The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

The new Bronx Pizza Company, situated in an industrial-looking Syosset strip mall north of the LIE, is a cozy little place that may soon become bigger. As co-owner Al Zilla tells it, his family, whose culinary lineage goes back to Arthur Avenue in the Bronx, is waiting for permits to expand into the vacant space next door, adding a full-fledged dining room with 75 seats.

For now, though, the place has a takeout counter and bar area with a few tables. On tap are 17 beers, several of them craft brews. The pizza oven, Zilla said, burns both coal and gas.

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There was only gas being used the day I stopped in and tried what turned out to be a commendable 12-inch Margherita pie ($10). True, the crust could have had a bit more char, but it had a lovely crunch and a nice melt of fresh mozzarella on top of a slightly sweet tomato sauce.

The place also smokes its own meat and hand-cuts potatoes for fries. Some items on its varied menu: a smoked salmon salad with lemon vinaigrette ($12), a house-smoked turkey wrap ($9) and an entree of chicken Francese ($17).

Bronx Pizza Company is at 235 Robbins Lane, Syosset; 516-802-4112.