Feed Me

The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

Mill Pond House, the waterside mainstay on Route 25A in Centerport, always has had basic appeal. The location alone is attractive. Service: professional. Food: dependable. Now, the kitchen rivals the view.

David Intonato, who earned three stars at Jamesport Manor Inn, is the executive chef at Mill Pond. He has fine-tuned the menu, adding some creative fare to the already flavorful combo of steaks and seafood. Reason to return.

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Standout dishes include a seviche of scallop and shrimp with charred heirloom tomatoes; and roasted Montauk swordfish, topped with miso-wasabi aioli and toasted panko bread crumbs, on a warm quinoa, edamame, heirloom tomato and wild mushroom salad.

Twice-roasted Crescent Farm duck is juicy and rich, finished with kiwi-orange sauce. And what's billed as lobster home fries actually works: sweet shellfish, spicy cherry peppers, caramelized onions, spuds and Sriracha-spiked creme fraiche.

That tiki bar is fun, too.

Mill Pond House, 437 E. Main St., Centerport; 631-261-7663.

Mill Pond House ... room with a view.