Farmingdale’s recent game of musical restaurant chairs has ended well for fans of Central American food. First, the venerable El Paso Taco Grill moved East on Conklin Street to take over the much larger premises vacated this summer by M and M Grocery and Grill, the promising Turkish restaurant that closed less than a year after it opened.
That left an empty storefront in downtown Farmingdale and I am happy to report that it has been ably filled by Las Delicias Latinas, serving the cuisines of Mexico, Honduras, El Salvador and the Dominican Republic.
A recent lunch got off to a slow start, but all was forgiven when we were served a fresh, clean guacamole whose accompanying tortilla chips were still warm from the fryer. Pollo con tajada, a Honduran specialty, comprised a huge chicken leg surrounded by fried green banana slices and topped with a colorful shower of cabbage slaw, sour cream and pink pickled onions. Tacos filled with tongue, chorizo and marinated pork were fine, but I gave the edge to the shatteringly crisp chicken tostadas. Pupusas, one filled with cheese and pork, the other with cheese and loroco (vine blossoms) were gooey and greasy — as they should be. I’ll be returning for another Honduran specialty: baleadas, fat, homemade flour tortillas griddled to order and wrapped around (in the case of the baleada especial) beans, cheese, sour cream, avocado and egg.
Las Delicias Latinas is at 505 Conklin St., Farmingdale, 516-249-3600.