Long Island has added another notch to its Chinese-dining belt: Splendid Noodle in Stony Brook is making hand-pulled noodles.
Like most establishments that make lamian (la means “stretch;” miàn means “noodle”), Splendid Noodle affords diners a view of the kitchen where the noodle-maker plies his craft: He repeatedly folds, twists and pulls a length of dough to develop a stringy, elastic texture — similar to how curds are kneaded to form “pasta filata” cheeses such as mozzarella. After the correct texture is achieved, he begins pulling and stretching the dough into ever-thinner filaments which become the noodles.
At Splendid Noodles, the noodles are served in more than a dozen broth-based dishes, including vegetable, beef tendon, ox tail, roast duck, spare ribs and seafood. There are also two “dry” preparations, sesame noodles and noodles with minced pork. Only the “house” noodles, with various cuts of beef, tops $10. The décor is modest in the extreme, but who needs a decorator when all eyes are focused on the show?
Splendid Noodle is just steps away from another Chinese-food-destination restaurant, Red Tiger Dumpling House (LI’s leading outpost for steamed juicy buns AKA soup dumplings).
Splendid Noodle is at 1320 Stony Brook Rd., Stony Brook, 631-675-6725.