Sporting a new chef and under new management, City Cellar in Westbury does seem new again.
Now subtitled "American Modern," the spacious, festive high-decible spot comes through with dishes as varied as lobster sliders with brown butter aioli and pork osso buco with cannellini beans and andouille sausage, cavatelli in a snappy pork ragu and incendiary spiced tuna with Thai mango slaw.
Chef Jason Damato also sends out a very good shrimp and grits, tasty meatball sliders, and lush bananas Foster pie.
Expect some partying here as the holidays near.
City Cellar, 1080 Corporate Dr., Westbury; 516-693-5400.