From high-end Italian to value-priced Colombian, with every kind of Indian in between, there may be no town on Long Island with a more eclectic assortment of great eating than Hicksville. (And don’t forget the Swedish meatballs at Ikea — 15 of them for $4.99.)
LUIGI Q, 400 S. Oyster Bay Rd., Hicksville, 516-932-7450
At Luigi Q, one of Long Island’s best Italian restaurants, consider surrendering to whatever proprietor Luigi Quarta suggests. Everything here is excellent, but the kitchen goes above and beyond with fish, seasonal vegetables, pasta and homestyle specialties from Quarta's hometown of Brindisi, on the heel of Italy’s boot.
LA FINCA, 170 Broadway, Hicksville, 516-935-0951
The big deal here at La Finca (the farm) is the “bandeja tipica,” the national dish of Columbia: An oval platter containing grilled steak, fried pork rind, fried plantains, a wedge of avocado, white rice, red beans, an arepa (corn cake) and, the icing on the cake, a fried egg. All this for $11.95. Rotisserie chicken, seafood, rice dishes, soups, breakfast. It’s all generous, all good.
HOUSE OF DOSAS, 416 S. Broadway, Hicksville, 516-938-7517
The specialty here is the vegetarian cuisine of Southern Indian, specifically the manhole-sized rice-lentil crepes called dosas. They come stuffed with scores of savory fillings, from mild to incendiary. Also try the thicker uthappams, seductively spongy pancakes with the fillings cooked inside the batter, and fine vegetarian curries.
CHOOPAN GRILL, 15 W. Marie St., Hicksville, 516-681-8818
A fine place for a first foray into Afghan cuisine, Choopan Grill is equal parts exotic and approachable. Try the aushak, dumplings stuffed with leeks and capped with yogurt; savory curries with brown basmati rice, any of the kebabs, particularly the highly seasoned, minced chicken chapli. Vegetarians will find many options such as aush-e-nanah dagh, homemade noodles topped with butter, garlic, mint and yogurt sauce.
HICKSVILLE SWEET SHOP, 75 Broadway, Hicksville, 516-931-0130
The unassuming shop is a throwback to that pre-Baskin Robbins era, when luncheonettes made their own ice cream, sauces and syrups as well as candies and molded chocolates. At the Sweet Shop, they still do, and the Zouros family is equally conscientious about the savory menu items. Put yourself on the list and they’ll call you when sauerbraten and chicken and dumplings show up as daily specials.