Recently I rounded up five Long Island bakeries making great doughnuts. This morning I found myself at Dunkin’ Donuts in Hewlett. I ordered a raised sugar doughnut. It was fluffy but not so light as to be easily squished; a fine dusting of sugar contrasted nicely with the not-too-sweet interior. This was one fine doughnut, for $1.09. And there are thousands like it all over Long Island.
As I wandered this Island in search of doughnuts, I learned that most of the best purveyors sell out early. If you want a doughnut after lunch — or after sunset — you will probably have to settle for one that’s more than six hours old. I guess I never really appreciated Dunkin’ Donuts’ credo, that “It’s time to make the doughnuts” all day long.