El Paso Taqueria y Pupuseria in Farmingdale has reopened after a brief hiatus. The unpretentious little place, with a steam table and grill behind the counter, is back to turning out excellent soft corn tacos, pupusas and a host of Mexican and Salvadoran specialties.
Nobody was happier than I on a recent afternoon when I satisfied a craving for tacos de lengua ($8 for three), two-ply soft corn tacos filled with succulent cubes of tongue topped with sliced radishes and showered with cilantro. A squirt of lime and I was in taco heaven.
El Paso Taqueria & Pupuseria is at 505 Conklin St., Farmingdale, 516-249-3600.