Feed Me

The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

A piquant and nuanced bowl of sweet potato chipotle soup ($3.89) kicked off a recent dinner at the new Sombrero’s Southwestern Grill in Kings Park. I hadn’t expected such fare in a faux Mex-Southwestern setting hung with such cliches as serapes, wall sculptures of Kokopelli (the ubiquitous flute player) and several namesake sombreros.

Quarters are tight here. One has the choice of moving down a line and pointing to ingredients from a steam table or ordering off a menu. I opted to be waited on.

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What intrigued me most was the presence of fajitas with carnitas, or roasted pork ($9.99) — a departure from the conventional chicken, shrimp or steak,  also available. The moist, flavorful meat was presented in a cast iron pan with peppers and onions, alongside a covered dish of flour tortillas. Odd, though, that only rice, beans and sour cream were offered as accompaniments. I was, however, able to commandeer some guacamole and pico de gallo, which, rolled into the tortillas with the meat, made for lively eating. Less successful was a rather boring Margarita shrimp salad ($8.99) with tomatoes, cucumber, and pico de gallo.

Sombrero’s is not a date night restaurant, but as a spot for a hearty bite, it definitely fills a niche.

Sombrero’s Southwest Grill is at 30 Indian Head Rd., Kings Park, 631-544-5000.