It didn’t matter that I’d already eaten lunch. Hunger has nothing to do with the craving for really good fries. And Belgian fries, at that.
That’s the specialty of the three-week-old Burnside Deli & Belgian Fries in Lawrence, whose fries have to be experienced firsthand. If you’ve ever had the fries at European Republic in Huntington, you may know the quality of which I speak. As it turns out, owner Herman Hotaki is related to the owners of the decade-old Huntington spot. The family, with origins in Afghanistan, has relatives in Germany. That’s where the fry idea originated.
The hand-cut oblongs, served in a paper cone, are fried to a deep golden brown, lightly crisped on the exterior, creamy and potato-sweet within. Get them with one or several dipping sauces. I'm curiously partial to the Thai-inspired peanut sauce. But ketchup works well, too. Or nothing.
Like European Republic, Burnside Deli serves a changing roster of house-made soups (like lentil, split pea and carrot) daily. There’s also the usual deli menu.
Me, I'll skip right to the fries.
Burnside Deli & Belgian Fries is at 267 Burnside Ave., Lawrence, 516-792-6842
My fries with dips (Newsday Photo / Joan Reminick)