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Five Towns fries

Fries at Burnside Deli & Belgian Fries in

Fries at Burnside Deli & Belgian Fries in Lawrence Photo Credit: Joan Reminick

It didn’t matter that I’d already eaten lunch. Hunger has nothing to do with the craving for really good fries. And Belgian fries, at that.

That’s the specialty of the three-week-old Burnside Deli & Belgian Fries in Lawrence, whose fries have to be experienced firsthand. If you’ve ever had the fries at European Republic in Huntington, you may know the quality of which I speak. As it turns out, owner Herman Hotaki is related to the owners of the decade-old Huntington spot. The family, with origins in Afghanistan, has relatives in Germany. That’s where the fry idea originated.

The hand-cut oblongs, served in a paper cone, are fried to a deep golden brown, lightly crisped on the exterior, creamy and potato-sweet within. Get them with one or several dipping sauces. I'm curiously partial to the Thai-inspired peanut sauce. But ketchup works well, too. Or nothing.

Like European Republic, Burnside Deli serves a changing roster of house-made soups (like lentil, split pea and carrot) daily. There’s also the usual deli menu.

Me, I'll skip right to the fries.

Burnside Deli & Belgian Fries is at 267 Burnside Ave., Lawrence, 516-792-6842

My fries with dips (Newsday Photo / Joan Reminick)

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