Feed Me

The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

No shortage of style and swagger at the new Havana Central at Roosevelt Field, where the salsa beat keeps the party going. The cavernous place reverberates to an overall din that sometimes clashes with the music.

The evening I went, a live salsa band came on in the middle of dinner. Loved it. A knockout passionfruit mojito ($10.50) paired well with shrimp seviche ($12) served in a martini glass. It was as bright and citrusy as it was attractively turned out.

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Very good ropa vieja ($17.95) — shredded beef with onions and peppers — but dry roasted pork. Best dish of the evening: super-garlicky mofongo (mashed plantains) with plenty of shrimp in a perky red sauce ($18.95).

Havana Central Restaurant & Bar is at Roosevelt Field (Near JC Penney), Garden City, 516- 516-739-7900, havanacentral.com.