Take a look at the above storefront and tell me what indication you have that food is served there.
This is the view you get of Villa Napoli in Smithtown if you're driving on Jericho Turnpike. The surprise is that the place does double duty as a pizzeria and a full-service Italian dining spot, accessible via an interior door. When I visited, I found the door closed and had to ask whether there actually was a restaurant. I can't imagine how many people who've stopped by for a slice don't even realize a dining room exists — and an attractive one, at that.
Our table was the only one being served. I found very good baked clams, homey lasagna, fine eggplant parmigiana and ultra-tender, citrusy chicken Francese. Other than longtime neighborhood clientele, who would know?
The restaurant's name does appear on a side entrance awning. A phone call to the place revealed that the front awning was destroyed in a storm about three months ago; a new one should be ready soon.
Villa Napoli is at 83 W. Main St., Smithtown, 631-724-8787
Newsday Photo /Joan Reminick